Baked Southern Macaroni and Cheese

This is the custard-style baked mac from church suppers and Sunday tables, bound with eggs and evaporated milk rather than a heavy roux. It bakes up sliceable and rich, with a sharp cheddar top that browns in patches under the broiler.

Ingredients

• 1 lb elbow macaroni
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for the pasta water
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the dish
• 3 large eggs
• 1 can (12 oz) evaporated milk
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 lb sharp cheddar cheese, freshly grated (about 4 cups), divided
• 8 oz Colby Jack cheese, freshly grated (about 2 cups)
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Instructions

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
2. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the macaroni about 2 minutes shy of package directions so it stays firm, then drain and return it to the warm pot. Stir in the 4 tablespoons butter until melted.
3. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, evaporated milk, whole milk, dry mustard, garlic powder, black pepper, cayenne, and 1 tablespoon salt until smooth.
4. Set aside 1 cup of the cheddar for the top. Stir the remaining cheddar and all the Colby Jack into the buttered macaroni, then pour in the egg mixture and fold everything together.
5. Scrape the macaroni into the prepared dish, level the top, and scatter the reserved cheddar over it evenly.
6. Bake 40 to 45 minutes, until the center is set and the edges bubble. If the top needs more color, run it under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes. Let it rest 10 minutes before cutting.

Tips

• Grate the cheese from blocks. Pre-shredded cheese is coated with anti-caking starch that keeps it from melting smoothly.
• The custard should still jiggle slightly at the center when you pull it out. It firms up as it rests.