Hoppin’ John

Hoppin' John cooks dried field peas and rice in the same pot so the starch and pot liquor bind everything together, a dish that traces straight back to West African rice-and-bean traditions carried through the Gullah Geechee kitchens of the Carolina coast. Served on New Year's Day it promises luck, but it earns a place on the table any cold week of the year.

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried field peas or black-eyed peas
• 1 smoked ham hock (about 12 oz)
• 4 thick slices bacon, chopped
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 2 stalks celery, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 6 cups water
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 cup long-grain white rice (Carolina Gold if available), rinsed

Instructions

1. Sort the dried peas and rinse them. Cover with cold water and soak at least 4 hours or overnight, then drain.
2. In a large pot, cook the bacon over medium heat until the fat renders, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and celery and cook until soft, about 5 minutes, then add the garlic and cook one minute more.
3. Add the drained peas, ham hock, 6 cups water, bay leaf, black pepper, and cayenne. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer.
4. Simmer partially covered for about 45 minutes, until the peas are tender but still hold their shape. Add the salt once the peas have softened.
5. Lift out the ham hock, pull the meat from the bone, chop it, and return the meat to the pot. Discard the bone, skin, and bay leaf.
6. Measure the liquid in the pot and adjust so you have about 2 cups covering the peas. Stir in the rinsed rice, cover tightly, and cook on low for 20 minutes until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Let rest 5 minutes, then fold together and taste for salt.

Tips

• Salt the peas only after they turn tender. Salting early keeps the skins tough and slows the cooking.
• Serve with a side of collards and cornbread. The greens stand in for folding money and the peas for coins on New Year's Day.